Sunny Prince of Wales and Sketchikan

I have 1 hour to get this blog posted before the mall kicks me out so here goes! I left off with the day before we left for another “business” trip to Prince of Wales. I biked to the grocery store to buy groceries in prep for Kelli’s visit and a new water bottle because Owen said he wouldn’t talk to me until I stopped drinking out of a pasta sauce jar. I overheard someone saying that the jökulhlaup, which means flooding of glacial waters, had happened at the Mendenhall Glacier. So after grocery shopping I biked over there and it was crazy! Huge trees were halfway covered in water, paths were closed, logs were floating down the river. Awesome.

Flooding at the glacier

Underwater garden

I saw a porcupine!

Saturday morning we flew to Ketchikan on a commercial plane then took a float plane to Prince of Wales. It was sunny and hot. I’m dead serious. I’m so excited I’ll just come right out and say it- the next four days were also sunny and hot. A freak of nature occurred. Anyway, the float plane ride was fun, except for this super strange Christmas song that the pilot played which included a verse about tampons. There was a maggot-covered mushroom at the Hollis bunkhouse, in case you were wondering. Di, Mark and I did respiration work for a few hours then went grocery shopping. This time I restrained myself but still bought peach rings, chips, chocolate Chex Mix, and chicken wings. Di and I then ran 9 miles to the bunkhouse we were staying at for the next two days. It was a great run along the ocean, and we talked the whole way. Later that night the three of us pigged out on beer and two different types of pizzas. Before bed Peter, one of the guys staying at the bunkhouse, and I baked surprise brownies for Mark (it was his birthday a few days ago).

Our pilot

Near our bunkhouse in Craig

Sunday morning Di and I lit candles in the brownies and presented them to Mark- he had no idea we were doing this! Despite the fact that he saw us buy brownies and candles (he thought they were gummies), the scent of brownies filled the bunkhouse the night before, and we asked for his lighter to light the candles. We pulled it off! Plus we got to eat brownies with breakfast. That day we drove almost two hours to get to our work site. We took lots of pictures of “extreme respiration” as per the request of the creator of the measurement equipment. After we finished work, we drove around on remote back roads looking for the town of Naukati, which Di and Mark claimed had a general store that they had seen in a video. I was praying it sold icecream. Finally, after an hour we found it! No icecream but we did get delicious cream sodas. I felt like such an Alaskan. On the long drive home, we munched on snacks from the feed bag, as Mark calls it. Had a kick ass dinner of fruit salsa, chicken, and chipotle-sour cream in tortillas that Di made.

 

Working hard or hardly working?

Berries from the side of the road!

In cream soda heaven

Found a starfish!

View from near the bunkhouse

On Monday we moved out of the Craig bunkhouse and into a Forest Service cabin at Polk inlet. We had a long day of work involving lots of mosquitos, a possible high off of DEET, and a bear sighting! Di almost walked right up to the bear when I spotted it in the woods. Di and I went for a short run and then went swimming! We cooked shishkabobs over the fire for dinner. I had a field day taking pictures that night.

Referring to a cafe along the side of the road

Our cabin is off to the right

So pretty!

Tuesday morning Di and I woke up around 6am and ran for an hour! I thought I was going to hate it, but it actually was awesome. I swam again, the water was freezing but it woke me up for real. It was another long day of work. At one point, a huge stick, maybe 6 feet long, had gotten attached to Mark’s backpack and he dragged it for a little bit before turning around and realizing he had a tail. At another point, Di tripped in the woods and just fell to the ground and stayed there for awhile. I packed all my stuff up because I was getting dropped off at another bunkhouse for the night- I was leaving a day early to get back in time for Kelli’s arrival. Anyway, we were all outside ready to get in the car but we somehow all just sat down and started eating chips. Finally we drove to the Hollis bunkhouse. I made dinner for the three of us, then Mark and Di left to go back to Polk Inlet. I watched an episode of Game of Thrones with people at the bunkhouse.

On Wednesday I took the ferry from Prince of Wales to Ketchikan. It was a three hour ride, pretty fun. I read, listened to a guy playing a harmonica, and napped. Once I got to Ketchikan I navigated the local bus system like a pro and paid only $1.50 to get to and from downtown! I wandered around with my huge backpacking backpack and got the usual comments- “That must weigh as much as you!” I precariously navigated tiny, busy tourist shops with the pack. I was wearing a Cornell hat and shirt, and that must have been the magic combo because two different people approached me saying they researched at Cornell or had relatives that went to Cornell. Both of them shook my hand and one guy said his mom would be so happy. I came across an interesting group of drunk guys that swore they could show me the most kick-ass view in town, I found it on my own, thank you very much. I also responded to the name “Red Boy” ( I had a red shirt and red hat on) which was actually referring to an old man. When I was so tired from carrying my pack that I could barely stand upright, I got lunch at a little burger shack. Since the government was paying, I went hog wild and spent $20 on a burger, fries and a milkshake. Livin’ big! As I was about to leave, this guy, maybe in his upper 20’s, came up to me and shot the shit for a bit and then asked if I WANTED TO MARRY HIM!!?! He said that I was so cute, I should move back to Washington with him… It was so strange. I did not know how to respond. So between the drunk guys and the marriage proposal, I thought Ketchikan lived up to its Sketchikan nickname. To be continued, the library is closing!

A cute street in Ketchikan

Down at the docks

 

Beauty, Bears, and Beer

Thursday was such an eventful day I had to post about it before I leave for another work trip. I took the bus into work and then went for a run around Auke Lake, a trail I had been hearing about all summer but still hadn't set foot on. My office building actually looks out over it, so it was tantalizingly close. Well, it was awesome! 

Looking out at Auke Lake

Chillin with my bear spray after the run

Later that day at work I was sitting at my desk on the computer when all of a sudden.... I SAW A BEAR RIGHT OUTSIDE THE OFFICE! The other woman in my office room and I watched it sniffing around and I was so excited I stood up on my desk to get better pictures. By that time the rest of the office had heard the commotion so we all went outside to watch it. It walked all around the front of the building and then eventually went back into the woods. 

Cinnamon colored black bear cub- so cute right?!

Then after work I went to The Alaskan brewery (the best local beer here) with some people from the bunkhouse. We got to tour the brewery and tried a lot of free samples. I basically got tipsy for zero dollars. That night I watched a movie with my neighbors at the bunkhouse. What a great day! Today I'm prepping for our work trip to Prince of Wales. Mark, Di and I leave tomorrow morning! 

Livin' on the Cheap

On Sunday I did an 11 mile run. I’m training for a marathon that’s in October. It went surprisingly well! I didn’t feel like standing afterwards so I took a long bubble bath. I don’t really remember much more about that day, I think it passed in a blur of bubbles and Gatorade.

On Monday I went back to the Bessie cedar stand (the place we had gone to last week) with John, Will, and Bryan. After work I watched a movie with some people that live in the bunkhouse.

On Tuesday I was in the lab all day for work, nothing memorable. At night I went over to dinner at the Milks’ house (that’s the family that I hiked down to the glacier with). When I texted them a question about places to travel when Kelli visits they invited me over to dinner! So I rode my bike over to their house after work. Before dinner we chatted, I tried salmon dip and crab dip, and I played with their incredibly fluffy cat. They showed me how to cook salmon and we had it three different ways: with a brown sugar glaze, with a sweet and sour sauce, and on its own. It was my first time having home-cooked salmon! After dinner we talked about all the different trips Kelli and I could go on. They also told me more about their time in Alaska and some of the trips they had gone on. I had been feeling a bit down because of all the rainy weather but their love, curiosity and knowledge about Alaska and Alaskan culture got me so excited about this place once again. I left loaded with 6 books about Alaskan travel and Alaskan adventure stories. I knew I had stayed there for a while, but since it was still completely light out when I biked home I figured it wasn’t that late. Turns out it was after 10pm! When I got home I frantically got ready for bed to prep for tomorrow’s work day.

On Wednesday I was in the field with John and Will. We went to a cedar stand site on Douglas Island. We used a device to record the location of each tree, took the diameter of the trees, and took soil samples. It was a pretty long day. It was pouring when I got home but I dragged myself on a run to my favorite spot overlooking Mendenhall Lake. Afterwards, I took a long bath, too tired to stand.

On Thursday I “splurged” and paid $1 to take the bus to work. I didn’t have set plans for the Fourth of July at that point- there were fireworks downtown that night but I had no way to get home other than a $40 taxi or hitchhiking. At work Di invited me to stay at her house downtown! That way I’d be downtown on the Fourth for the parade and festivities, perfect because the bus wasn’t running on the holiday. Then, later a coworker invited me to a party on the night of the Fourth! So my holiday plans quickly materialized. I took the bus home that afternoon. At home, I read guidebooks and almost threw up with excitement for Alaska and my sister’s visit. Late that night I took the bus downtown with my bike in tow. Since it was one of the last buses before the fireworks, it was super full. Lots of shenanigans were going on- the kid next to me had a bottle of moonshine! Since I had my bike with me I had to get off at an earlier stop before the heart of downtown. This was the stop I had always thought was super sketchy. I managed to get me and my bike off the bus, bleeding but in once piece (I cut my hand while violently pulling my bike off the bike rack). I met Di at her house and we had a beer and talked until she woke her son up. The fireworks didn’t start until midnight because it’s not dark enough until then! They were lit off from a barge on the channel between downtown Juneau and Douglas Island, they were awesome! Lots of people set off at-home fireworks too, even in the middle of downtown. Not sure if that’s totally legal… but we got a great show. It was so nice to sleep in a bed that night and not have to worry about getting home.

On Friday morning Di and I took her dog for a walk, I felt like a real downtown local. Her husband made amazing pancakes for us all for breakfast, a serious step up from my instant oatmeal. After that we walked around until we found a good spot to watch the parade. I hung out with Di’s friends and their kids. I spent so much time with the families that I almost felt like I was one of the moms! The parade had all kinds of floats (Mine Rescue, Alaska Airlines, Alaska Marine Trucking, the local university, the Filipino community, a shoe store, and Juneau Breastfeeds complete with pairs of nude colored balloons, among others). They handed out tons of candy too, which sounds like it’d be awesome. But I wasn’t so desperate for candy to run out in front of all the little kids. So I had to strategically scavenge, crossing the street sometimes for stray candy no one else had noticed! After that parade, I biked over to Douglas Island, a few miles away, and watched a second parade made up of some of the same floats from the first parade. I bought lunch- a hotdog, chips, and a soda which satisfied my America food craving. Then I biked a little farther down to watch a soapbox derby race, kids races, and I even participated in a potato sack race. Everyone who participates gets a dollar coin! I ran into my boss and three of my coworkers which was nice! I actually have friends in this city! I listened to some good ole’ American music, then finally pulled myself away to bike home. It was about 15 miles and it was actually pretty fun! I got to see parts of Juneau that I had only seen from a car zipping by so it was nice to see everything in slow motion. Then I went to the coworker’s party with Alex, someone who also lives in the bunkhouse and works at the Forestry Sciences Lab. Turns out I don’t work for the “Forest Service,” I work for the “Forestry Sciences Lab.” Good to know. Anyway, we ate great food, met people from New Zealand, played ping pong, heard all these spooky stories about bears, mountain lions, etc. and I won a game of pool. After that, Alex and I went back to the bunkhouse and drank/talked/watched tv. So I made a friend! That night I dreamt about wolves and guns. 

One of the awesome parts about the holiday was hanging out with all the people I’ve met in Juneau so far. The other awesome thing was how little money I spent doing it! I spent a net of $3 ($3 for lunch, $1 for the bus but I made $1 on the sack race) and that covered transportation to and from downtown and over to Douglas island, lodging downtown for a night, breakfast, lunch, dinner, lots of saltwater taffy, and entertainment-fireworks, 2 parades, and a live band. Not too shabby!

Downtown Juneau before the parade started

Biking over the channel to Douglas Island

Part of the parade on Douglas Island

Sandy Beach on Douglas Island

On Saturday I woke up late, did laundry, and talked to Evan on the phone outside in the sun, yes you read right, sun! I actually wore shorts and a tank top, the first time I’ve done that here not while on a run. Later Alex and I hiked the West Glacier trail, the one that the ice caves trail is off of. I had lost one of my water bottles and my camelback had a hole in it. I was too cheap to buy a water bottle so for the hike I used a spaghetti sauce jar as a water bottle. There were some great views from the top of the trail! After that we went to a party at the Milks’ house. Their other name shall be The Awesome Family. We talked with them and lots of their friends, had yet more great food, sat around the fire, and I shot a potato gun! It uses hair spray and a potato as ammo. Before we left, The Awesome Family made up heaping plates of leftover dinner and desserts for us to take home! I am so lucky. After the party, Alex and I watched an Alaskan survival/thriller movie. It would have been scary if the effects were better, but it was so ridiculous we couldn’t help but laugh.

View from the top

On Sunday I did a 12 mile run. Afterwards I sat outside in the sun on a trailer parked at the bunkhouse. Then I sat in a bubble bath for a while. Lots of sitting to recover. I did manage to get myself on my bike and rode over to the library. Once there, I opened up about 20 tabs on my computer and ran back and forth inside and outside the library making phone calls for my sister’s visit. I sat on this tiny kids chair outside the library with my credit cards strewn in my lap. Needless to say I felt absolutely crazy. The library and the mall kicked me out at 5pm (because they closed, not because I was causing a ruckus, I think…). I ate yummy leftovers for dinner.

On Monday I did field work with John and Will, we went back to the Bessie cedar stand. I took yet another bath, this seems to be my coping mechanism for the extreme amounts of physical activity I’m doing here. Then I vegged out and watched three hours of girly television shows!

On Tuesday I went out into the field with my boss and Todd, my adviser from Cornell who is visiting Alaska! I was prepping samples downstairs in the lab and he popped in, it was almost like seeing a ghost!  We all went out and showed Todd some of the respiration sites and other field projects. Back at the lab I measured the pH of the soil samples I had taken last Wednesday. After work I planned more of Kelli’s visit and called her, unable to contain my excitement, and blabbered on about my plans for each day, reading snippets from my Bible (aka my Alaska guidebook) about the places we are going to. Woo!

On Wednesday I went to the shooting range with Mark and shot a .375 rifle with 300 caliber bullets (as if I know what all that means). Basically it was a very large rifle. When I shot the first round, the kickback was so strong it knocked my ear muffs and earrings off! I shot three more times. We were aiming at paper plate targets, and I hit the plates twice and then right off the plates twice. It was pretty crazy. This gun is what you'd use as bear protection out here and apparently it can even do damage to an elephant! After work I went for a run to the glacier and then frantically biked here to the library to get this blog post published before it closed. And... 2 minutes to spare!

Most scenic shooting range ever

Woo!

Glaciers in Mendenhall Lake